The Northern Bengal region is gradually going the tea tourism way to generate revenue at a time when gardens are either sick or permanently closed. A report by Deepanwita Gita Niyogi
Photo by Anthony Kingsley
In April, London-based travel agent and writer Anthony Kingsley visited Darjeeling, often referred to as the Queen of Hills, to trace his family’s origin. It was in this eastern Himalayan region, famous for tea all over the world, where Anthony’s grandfather Edwin, a tea planter during the early 1900s, once owned the Liza Hill estate.
With the passage of time, however, things changed. Today, Liza Hill is owned by the Jay Shree tea company. The garden was acquired in the 1960s. But an old bungalow, a relic from the past, still stands today. “In my grandfather’s time, the bungalow was pretty big, with some 32 rooms in it,” Kingsley shared with Tehelka.
Photo by Joya Allay
The bungalow has an interesting history. It is believed that British explorer and mountaineer George Mallory either stayed in it once or at least visited it in its heyday. “The Queen of Sikkim (Rani Choying Wangmo Dorji) definitely visited the bungalow,” said Kinsgsley, who is interested in collaborating on tea tourism for interested clients.
Historically, the link to tea is firmly established in Darjeeling and is part of the hill station’s heritage. Although originally conceived as a place of relief from the intense heat of the plains much like Shimla in north India, tea plantation and production ultimately contributed to the development of Darjeeling Hills.
Tea tourism
When asked if tea is the main driver of tourism in Darjeeling at present, Kingsley replied that it is perhaps the heavenly view of the Himalayas and adventure sports that bring most tourists to this place. “But it is important that tea features prominently in Darjeeling’s story— how it came to be grown in this high-altitude place, the struggles that had to be overcome, and the challenges that persist today. Early planters, like my grandfather, had to clear dense forests for plantation. Today, it seems like an ecological disaster. But it is a story that needs to be told for people to understand why Darjeeling gifts the world such unique tea.”
Photo by Anthony Kingsley
Perhaps, tea tourism is the way out, with many closed gardens not only in Darjeeling, but also in the Dooars (foothills of the Eastern Himalayas) region due to low wages and high production losses. Travels to enjoy and learn about India’s tea heritage can ensure an alternative source of income for many estates.
Dil Kumar, who once monitored work in Jalpaiguri’s Chengmari tea garden in the Dooars region pointed out that tea gardens are struggling. “The pest attack is high. Some chemical sprays have been banned. But in place of these, the organic ones aren’t always effective. Tea plants don’t respond well to the latter,” said Kumar, whose family originally hails from Jharkhand’s Gumla district, but has been living in West Bengal for three generations.
A tea garden union leader said on the condition of anonymity that after gardens are permanently shut down, workers are forced to migrate outside in search of work. “Though these people come back once or twice a year, they kind of settle down elsewhere due to higher payments and greater job security. The crisis is deep. The younger generation doesn’t want to work in tea gardens due to low wages and heavy workload.”
Naturally, in such tough times, many well-known tea gardens are promoting tea tourism. Joya Allay, hospitality manager at Goodricke Group, admitted that the entire Northern Bengal region, including the Darjeeling Hills area, is heavily tilting towards tea. “Many gardens lie outside main towns and are rich in natural beauty and heritage. Many gardens are 100-150 years old. As tea production is not earning much profit, tea tourism is an alternative route.”
On its part, Goodricke has established tea lounges to promote Darjeeling tea and make people aware about its rich heritage. Allay shared that the company has opened its doors to tourists who want to experience stays in tea garden bungalows. According to her, tourism is one of the few industries thriving in Darjeeling. “Tea and tourism go hand in hand. A blend of both would help the tea industry achieve better goals in future.”
Calling out tourists
Though in Northern Bengal, Darjeeling has a definite attraction with its heritage Himalayan railway and views of the snow-capped Kanchenjunga peak, Dooars is also attractive with its dense forests and rich wildlife. The added advantage in both these places is definitely tea.
In Alipurduar district, which is a part of the Dooars region, Manab Bakshi is trying his best to promote tea tourism. “In tea gardens, there are areas which are left out for fodder. These can be developed by building cottages for tourists. On my part, I am trying to integrate wildlife tourism with tea tourism, as Dooars is known for its animals like elephants and rhinos as well as scenic beauty of the jungles.” Though Bakshi talked about hurdles in his efforts to promote tea tourism, such as acquiring leases and starting dialogues with tea companies, he is keen on promoting and safeguarding a much-loved heritage.
As a travel agent, Kingsley offers an advice. As tourism adapts all the time, tea tourism is no different. “The tea industry has to look at what other businesses are doing and adopt practices that work well. Plantations, particularly those which have invested in organic methods, will definitely find wildlife near gardens. This will attract many tourists initially, who can be made to take an interest in tea later on.”
Kingsley feels that the story of tea is such an integral part of Northern Bengal, and particularly that of Darjeeling, that it makes sense to promote it in the same way wine is promoted. “The story of Darjeeling tea is a fascinating one and deserves to be told and shared as widely as possible.”
