{"id":324712,"date":"2020-07-17T08:25:43","date_gmt":"2020-07-17T08:25:43","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tehelka.com\/?p=324712"},"modified":"2020-07-17T08:25:45","modified_gmt":"2020-07-17T08:25:45","slug":"indias-silk-is-more-valuable-than-gold","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/indias-silk-is-more-valuable-than-gold\/","title":{"rendered":"\u2018India\u2019s silk is more valuable than gold\u2019"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\"><strong>Edited Excerpts from an interview \u2022<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_324725\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-324725\" style=\"width: 581px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/tehelka.com\/indias-silk-is-more-valuable-than-gold\/60-21\/\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-324725\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" class=\" wp-image-324725\" src=\"http:\/\/tehelka.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/60-300x257.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"581\" height=\"498\" srcset=\"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/media\/2020\/07\/60-300x257.jpg 300w, https:\/\/tehelka.com\/media\/2020\/07\/60-490x420.jpg 490w, https:\/\/tehelka.com\/media\/2020\/07\/60.jpg 570w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 581px) 100vw, 581px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-324725\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">PIERRE CARDIN I 98<br \/>FRENCH DESIGNER<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Which particular Indian fabric fascinates you the most?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">The Khadi. In fact, your textiles, the silks and cottons, are beautiful. Silk is more important and valuable than gold\u2026. I use a lot of Khadi in the making of garments.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Besides being good, Indian fabrics are cheap as compared to fabrics from other countries. Do you take advantage of this fact?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">No, no. The Indian fabric is no longer cheap by the time it reaches us, with heavy customs and air freight charges that we have to pay. I buy it because it is good.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">But doesn\u2019t it sadden you that we Indians still do not realize the value of our textiles and grab the synthetics?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">This is no longer true. I am seeing a definite trend towards the use of silk and cotton. Of course, in the West, synthetics are no longer fashionable.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">You designed a shirt for the Crafts Mela. What did you have in mind whilst designing it for the Indians?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Well, it is made of Khadi and it is loose and comfortable, keeping in mind the proportions of the body. The motto on it symbolizes a man and a woman who create a new life.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Whilst designing, what are your priorities and target groups?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">My basic aim is to make the dress comfortable and also more wearable for the working woman. Even I work hard, 18-20 hours a day, so I go in for comfortable clothes. Every woman has the right to be fashionable and should have a <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">desire to buy and that desire to buy has to be created. Fashion is very, very <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">important. Because if there is no fashion, then there is no business and if there is no business then factories will close down, which will mean unemployment for thousands \u2026Over the last few decades there has been a definite change in the fashion world \u2014 in the sense that in the fifties or say in the sixties only the rich had the right to be fashionable\u2026. I design for every single women. For the masses.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">If you are designing for every single woman then how do you retain that exclusiveness attached to your designer collection ?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">The exclusiveness comes from the fact that I keep changing the designs. I <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">design over 250 new garments every season. You cannot have the same style. They have to be different like moods, season times etc.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Which part of the body do you highlight whilst designing?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Nothing in particular. At times I make long and loose dress, at times short. It all depends \u2026for this coming spring season we are in for long dresses with a lot of material in greens, blacks and browns.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Which type of women attract you?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Every woman can be fascinating. I feel beauty is not enough. There has to be personality. And most important for a woman is to be herself, to respect herself.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">What is your concept of an ideal woman?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">I change \u2026At times a tall woman could fascinate me, attract me. Or at other times a short lady could be charming. But I feel in fashion the age factor is very important.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">What type of women put you off?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Difficult to answer this. I dress every woman. But all that I can say is that <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">I don\u2019t like women who look or, say dress ridiculously. If you have fat legs then why wear a short skirt. It is not necessary to wear particular clothes if they don\u2019t suit you. Wear simple instead of wearing loud stuff and looking stupid.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Do your women friends always wear outfits designed by you?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">No, they wear mine plus from other houses. It is like eating in a restaurant. You are faithful to one but you still frequent the other restaurants.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">You have been visiting India right from 1965. Have you noticed any difference in the fashion scene here?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">A lot. In 1965, I saw girls in churidars, but now I\u2019m seeing\u00a0 a number of girls wearing pants. Though for the evening parties, it\u2019s still the sari which is <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">good because it gives a sense of your country.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">How do you find sari as a dress?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">It is not a dress. It is a material \u2026But I really feel hurt when I have to cut it to make dresses.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Any particular Indian dress inspired you?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">I\u2019m totally original\u2026And let me tell <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">you that originality is better than copying. All my designs are conceived in my head.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">In India only the rich have the privilege of following fashions but the other socio- economic groups cannot do so. How can we break this monopoly?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">I design for the masses, the common person\u2026But this story doesn\u2019t hold true only in the Indian context but even in Europe. In the West, the elite women of big towns can follow the changing fashions but the women in the countryside buy new fashionable garments only once in two or three years or maybe not even then.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Do the changing values, from good to bad, affect one\u2019s personality vis-a-vis fashion, that is hardened women in feminine outfits?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Not really. In fact, you must do what <\/span><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">you want to do .Be yourself.If you want to be nude,be nude.Don\u2019t bother what others say.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">How important is the value of your name, your label in the business world?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Name or brand is very, very important, whether it is cigarettes, food, clothes or anything. You buy your favourite brand. But remember my name was not built in a day but in 40 years.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">You have been called a workaholic. How do you cope with the tensions and pressures?<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">Yes, I work for hours; say 18 to 20 hours but my work is also my biggest relaxation.<\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: justify;\"><span style=\"font-size: 14pt; font-family: 'times new roman', times, serif;\">letters@tehelka.com<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Edited Excerpts from an interview \u2022 Which particular Indian fabric fascinates you the most? The Khadi. In fact, your textiles, the silks and cottons, are beautiful. Silk is more important and valuable than gold\u2026. I use a lot of Khadi in the making of garments. Besides being good, Indian fabrics are cheap as compared to [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":324725,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[23,2205],"tags":[13200],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/324712"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=324712"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/324712\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":324727,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/324712\/revisions\/324727"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/media\/324725"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=324712"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=324712"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/tehelka.com\/rest-api\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=324712"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}